Lunenburg was a nice stopover after a long sail. I went for a jog while Margot played the role of a town guide for our friends. The back harbor path runs about 4km one way going through woods with lots of birds (I saw a blue jay, and I'm sure Margot could have identified many more). Then the path goes through a field which was pleasant under the blazing Nova Scotia sun. At the end of the trail I found some wild raspberries to give me energy to get back. I also spotted a couple of small snakes, almost stepped onto one.
The forecast was calling for light winds in the afternoon and then building winds and rain in the evening. The light wind prediction ended being no wind at all. Our destination was Port Mouton island, so named because one of Champlain's sheep fell off the vessel there in 1604. We ended up motoring the entire way, although towards the end there was some wind so we motorsailed. The wind did continue to build and drizzle turned into rain by the time we were anchored. The scenery is beautiful with little islands, water and hills on the mainland. Totally peaceful as we were the only vessel in the cove and the village of Port Mouton was a few miles away.
The wind continued to build overnight and the ocean swell built up as well, so while I wouldn't call it an uncomfortable night, it was the least peaceful night we've had in Nova Scotia. The anchor held well, so in the morning we found ourselves in the same place as where we anchored last night.
We went ashore in a light drizzle, but while the little beach is nice, the growth is very thick and going into the island is hard. We found some wild blueberries, but most are still green. Next week it looks like there will be blueberries galore. We'll have to look for them in Maine. Guide books and activecaptain.com recommend going onto the beaches on the other side, but with 15-20 mph wind blowing directly onto the beach that didn't look appealing, so we packed the dingy, tidied up and headed out.
The conditions were nothing like they were yesterday. Luckily the wind was in our back, but we also had to deal with the seas that have built over the previous day. Most of the waves were 3-4 feet, but some big rollers were a good 8 feet. As good as Margot's stomach had been the past 3 weeks, this motion was too much for her (and for 10 year-old Pavel). Yesterday they were making projects, playing hide-and-seek, and today the kids were out.
The big kids enjoyed driving Salty Ginger in the wind and the swell. We just set the genoa and with it alone early on we maintained 8 knots for a long time, surfing down some of the waves at 10 knots. Then the wind quited down a bit so we slowed down to 6.5-7 knots, totally under control with very easy boat handling.
We are now hidden in the Shelburne bay, and Pavel is having fun helping his dad steer the boat. Margot now woke up and is feeling good. We're less than 5 miles away from the town, and our plan is to get some diesel, fresh water, and roam around the tiny town tonight.
Tomorrow morning we will start our overnight passage to Bar Harbor. The winds are favorable, and early in the morning the current will help us. We aim to get into Acadia national park early Thursday, clear customs and explore the park by foot and by boat.
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