To be honest, I am rather tired, but I also realize that if I don’t write down what happened in the last day, I will get lazy and ultimately stop writing down this pseudo diary. So I have to pull myself together.
After all I was totally energetic when I woke up! I heard Sasha and thought that I overslept. It was light out, so I got up, brushed my teeth, got dressed and looked at the phone clock to discover that it was 6:17. Oh, I guess I did not oversleep. Shortly after I started reading a book, Sasha came out of his cabin and we started with coffee, breakfast and all that while being engulfed in the fog.
Maine fog is a living thing. It comes, it goes. It lets the sun shine on you, but then swallows it. It can be windy, it can be still. But it is quite magical.
Malaga Island
But let me jump back to yesterday. The point of the shake-down cruise was to ensure that things work. We already established some electrical problems, but luckily mechanical problems did not follow. The dinghy (named “Ginger Snap” by Irina) unfolded as quickly and easily as usual. She didn’t take on any water. The Torqueedo electric engine (7 years old!) pushed us towards the island and we landed about an hour before the low tide. I’ve gotten used to playing things by the ear. At the marina I saw that the high tide on Saturday morning was at about 7am, so at 11am it’s gotta be close to the low tide. We played it safe (just in case we get lost) and tied the dinghy line around a rock.
There is no getting lost on the island. It has a trail along the perimeter with one branch going to the southernmost tip. It’s pretty. It’s Maine.
At one point we heard a bird scream. We knew it wasn’t a gull, but we could not have expected it to be an eagle! The bird was perched on a tree (we were guessing the “he”) and another bird was responding to the screeches (presumably the female on the nest). Majestic and wild!
When we got into the dinghy and started to motor back, the engine hit a rock. Oops. I’ve done it before in Nova Scotia, I know the consequences: we probably have to change the pin that’s holding the propeller. The behavior of the engine was rather familiar: so long as I moderated the rotation speed, we moved forward just fine. If I revved up the engine, strange sounds emanated. Luckily, in the survey of the “stuff” aboard I located 2 pins, so we will be fine.
The “surf”
The 3 lobsters that we got could not fit into our pot, so we decided to cook 2 lobsters first and then split the 3rd one. While the water was boiling, the shake-down-cruisers started to take apart the prop of the dinghy engine. Sure enough, the pin was shattered and needed to be replaced. Sasha started to hammer out the piece that was stuck in the shaft, but the damn thing was rather stuck. The decision was easy: spray some penetrating oil and eat. That is exactly how one sails with Captain Andre: you work, you get to eat!
Ultimately the pin succumbed to our efforts and it was time to charge the engine battery. But… it wouldn’t charge. Well, we were totally set on sailing, so the small problem of not being able to charge the battery that we wouldn’t use on the cruise was not going to hold us back.
A boisterous sail
The wind was coming from the south and our plan was to come out of the cove, sail some 5 miles south, a few miles to the west and then go north. The most annoying part of heading straight into the wind we did under the motor. We told one another, that yeah, if we had to, we could tack back and forth and make it out, but we’re not racing, so let’s make things enjoyable. Even after we pulled out of the narrow estuary with rocks on both sides, we still had a few miles to push against the wind. And the wind was strong: 15 knots gusting to 20. Not quite at the level of character-building weather, but no lake sailing either. We did a daring feat, trusting that the chart was up to date: we went between two rocks separated by some 50 yards. We didn’t hit anything and kept going. We were practically alone in the seas that kept building. And it wasn’t warm.
Once we cleared the rocky islands we could point the bow west with the wind on our beam pushing us at 7-8 knots. I said “this is no kids sailing weather”. To which Sasha said “what do you mean? When I was 11 or 12, this was totally my sailing weather!”
We tucked into Harpswell harbour and then it began to drizzle. Fine, the apero will take place inside the boat. We chatted about bio-tech (Sasha’s professional life) and hi-tech. We talked about our childhoods on the rivers (mine) and lakes (his). We grilled a steak while it continued to rain — perhaps that added a certain “je ne sais pas quoi” to the taste and went to bed late, around 11.
Refreshing morning
When we woke up engulfed in the fog, we were sure that the sun will burn it off quickly. After all, the sun was there for us to see. But despite the best efforts of the sun and the wind to blow the fog away, it was clear in the harbour, but the fog kept moving along the water. At some point the wind stopped and I proposed that we go swimming. Sasha hesitated, but ultimately agreed that this was the time to do it: no wind and the sun shining through the thin clouds. We agreed not to turn on the instruments to check the water temperature and dived in. The water “burned” the skin on the chest and the forearms.
It was totally worth it!
As soon as we changed into the T-shirts of the season, the wind picked up and we had to put on more layers. Good timing!
We repeated the same trick we did the day before: we motored against the wind. The major difference was that this time we did it in the fog. The radar didn’t show any traffic and once we turned into the bay where the water was a bit warmer, the fog was gone and we enjoyed sailing while the wind was varying from 20 knots down to practically zero and back.
By the time we got back to the Maine Yacht Center, both of us were tired and it was hot. Well, “hot” is a relative thing after swimming in 13.8C water.